As is my custom when visiting a new coffee house, I asked the barista how they make their hot chocolate. The response usually includes "Ghirardelli" in some form or another, to which I'll order a chai tea.
But at Bean Street, the response to my question was different. "We have two types of hot chocolate," the barista, who I would learn is named Sita, replied. "One is made with cocoa powder and the other is made from ground cocoa beans."
Ground cocoa beans? Always ready to sample new methods of drinking chocolate I felt my excitement grow as I knew what I would order. My hopes however were quickly dashed when Sita added, "But we're out of beans today. We should get some tomorrow."
I could feel the disappointment grow as I settled on the powdered hot cocoa and swore I'd be back. The curiosity in trying a drinking chocolate made of ground cacao beans captured my imagination, and become a bit of an obsession.
When I returned to Bean Street a few weeks later, Sita was not there, but Crystal was. My intensity when ordering, and the story of my initial disappointment and now subsequent return from the mountains to sample this new style of drinking chocolate, probably overwhelmed her. But Crystal was generous and patient. And because I was the only person in the shop at the time, she took the time to explain and show me how this drinking chocolate, made from a bean, not a bar or a powder, is created.
I ordered the "hot cocoa" (as they call it) with soy milk, but Crystal said she didn't recommend it. Though it doesn't effect the taste, she explained that the ground up beans don't blend with soy the way they do with cow milk. (Look closely at the picture on the right.) Like oil and water, the two don't blend as the cocoa butter in the roasted beans separates from the soy milk. I said I was okay with the drink not being pretty, and wondered if it was possible for her to make the hot cocoa with both types of milk, and let me try it. Graciously, she did. (The staff at Bean Street are THE best!)
Served in clear glasses, the difference between the two were immediate. There was a cloudy haze with the soy as the chocolate particles swirled in the milk, while there was more of a creamed coffee look in the hot cocoa made with cow milk. (Unfortunately I don't have a picture of both together so to compare the two.)
When the two drinks arrived, I was so ready to sample. Neither was very sweet. Both had a strong bittersweet chocolate edge, which was rounded smooth by vanilla Torani syrup. The hot cocoa made with cow milk had a creamier texture, and had more of the "fruity," acidic, tannin taste, which I really don't like. It is a similar "bite" I find and don't care for in Columbian coffee. Though the hot cocoa made with soy milk was not as creamy and didn't look as blended, it had more of a balanced flavor. The extra flavoring in the soy milk probably added just a tinge more sweetness to take away the "bite".
After a few sips, I knew I was sold. Bean Street set a new standard for what hot cocoa needs to be. And like the chocophile I am, I bought a bag of their Brazilian cacao beans to sample, and later that night, went online and ordered three other types of roasted cacao beans from Chocolate Alchemy. Similar to coffee and wine, hot cocoa made from roasted cacao beans will vary in its flavor notes, reflecting its origin, the regional setting where the beans are grown. Soil conditions, weather, drying methods, roasting time are some of the factors that create a cacao bean's flavor profile.
I discovered that the Bean Street cacao beans from Brazil tend to have a stronger astringent note than the other types I purchased, with the expensive criollo cacao beans from Venezuela having the softest edge. No milk is even needed after brewing this batch, which I can almost drink straight without a sweetener! While I like the hearty, earthy taste of the beans from the Dominican Republic, my favorite is the Costa Rican beans which have a wonderful balance of bitter and sweet. They are, as described, "A simple elegant cocoa with fig and toffee", which I thoroughly enjoy.
So, "how is a cup of hot cocoa from cacao beans made?" You ask. Log into the blog tomorrow to find out.
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