"Study Bake" Brownies

I had been waiting for the right moment to make them. With no papers pressing, the morning sun gone, and rain clouds moving in, the afternoon seemed right to take a study break and stretch my emerging chocolate baking skills with Alice Medrich's recipe for Classic Unsweetened-Chocolate Brownies from her book, Bittersweet.

A friend suggested I call my "study break bake" a "study bake," and this round was definitely a study in baking brownies as I needed to adjust the amount of ingredients because of the chocolate I would be using.

A few months back, my mom received an 85% cacao, 3.5 oz bar of Valrhona. A bit too bitter to eat as a bar, this very excellent chocolate needed an excellent recipe to showcase it. The problem: I could find no recipe that uses an 85% bar. Recipes are based on the standard 58%, 66%, or 70% blend of chocolate liquor with the requisite sugar to total 100%. Alice's book makes it clear that stronger chocolates can affect the taste and texture of recipes in unexpected ways because of the chocolate and sugar percentages, thus other ingredients need to be adjusted appropriately.

Alice writes, "The effect of increasing liquor and decreasing sugar is exaggerated because manufacturers usually add less extra cocoa butter to chocolate when they increase the total amount of chocolate liquor (which has cocoa butter in it), so the amount of nonfat dry cocoa solids increase more than the fat as the percentage of chocolate goes up. The effect of using a higher-percentage chocolate is a little like adding cocoa powder to a recipe and subtracting sugar at the same time" (p. 345).

Get that? That's why this was definitely a "study bake" brownie. I needed to calculate the decreased amounts of sugar and butter and the increased amount of chocolate required for this recipe to compensate for the 85% bar. Add to this the fact that the recipe called for 4 oz. of chocolate, I only had one 3.5 oz bar, and I would make up the difference with the leftover 100% squares from the Chocolate Whiskey cake, it became a complicated little equation.

Given that brownies are always yummy as long as they are not totally overbaked and dry, I figured trying to calculate the adjusted amounts for brownies would be safer than attempting something else. And with the taste of brownie comfort still lingering on my palate as I now sit and blog, I think my inclinations were correct - for the most part - at least for taste.

The recipe called for 4 oz of unsweetened chocolate with 8 T (1 stick) butter and 1 1/4 cup sugar. In the appendix of Alice's book, she has guidelines for substituting 50-58%, 62-64%, 66%, and 70-72% for unsweetened (aka 100%) chocolate. No guidelines for substituting 85%, but doing the calculated estimations, I decided to go for 3.5 oz 85% + 1.5 oz. unsweetened, with the full stick of butter and 1 cup of sugar.

After the non-Alice whiskey chocolate cake recipe, I was glad to return to my chocolate diva. I am thankful for the little tidbits she provides to assure the newbie baker I be that I am on the right track.

For example, though I now feel comfortable melting chocolate, this recipe required a slightly different approach. Because all the ingredients would be added into the melted chocolate and butter, the mixture needed to be hot enough. How hot? "Hot enough that you want to remove your finger fairly quickly after dipping it in to test." Taste testing, I mean, temperature testing the chocolate with my finger was not only effective, it was fun, especially since I had the opportunity to lick off and sample the evidence a good 6 times until it was "just right."

After adding the 1 cup sugar, 1 t vanilla, and 1/4 t salt, then the two eggs, one at time, the 1/2 cup flour came next as the batter truly appeared "smooth, glossy." As it began to "come away from the sides of the bowl," just as Alice said it would, I continued to beat with my rubber spatula for 1-2 minutes as instructed. The picture doesn't really reflect it, but I was encouraged to see the batter in my bowl behaving just as Alice said it should. It came from the sides like a big brown glob of liquid silly putty. It was cool.

Because I've learned that my mom's oven is a bit hotter than Alice's, less time is needed. Rather than 20 minutes at 400 degrees, after about 18 minutes, the brownies looked "dry" on the surface and began "to pull away from the sides of the pan," as Alice said they would, indicating they were done. The inserted toothpick was more "gooey," than "quite gooey" when it came out from the center, but the brownies smelled warm and wonderful as the tray went into the ice bath to cool per Alice's instructions.

I probably should have let the brownies cool a bit longer than I did before trying to cut them, but Alice didn't give a time and I was anxious to sample. There's just something about a warm brownie (with walnuts - about 2/3 cup) on a cold and wet day that brings an assuring embrace of comfort.

Though the taste was a bit sweeter than I expected, there was a subtle bittersweet bite that created a wonderfully complex chocolate symphony which is hard to describe in words. The depth of flavor is probably due to the quality of chocolate used. It's sweet - yet not too sweet. It has a bittersweet bite - yet not too bitey. Though there was no coffee or alcohol, there was a rich sophistication. The walnuts created a wonderful balancing crunch to the gooey brownie texture, and stood up to the strong chocolate tones with its bold nutty accents.

While I really like the taste of these brownies (which are definitely better than the boxed ones I've made), I have 3 issues with how they came out. I don't know if it was me, the substitutions I made, or heaven forbid, Alice's recipe, but...

(1) The brownies were a bit oily -- not a bad oily, just a bit oily. I should have went with my original calculations of deleting 1/2 teaspoon of butter rather than being lazy and using the full stick. I think the extra 1/2 teaspoon plus the oily nature of walnuts were a bit too much.
(2) The brownies were crumbly and simply did not hold together well when I cut them.
(3) And as I cut them, they stuck to the foil liner which Alice said to use to get the brownies out of the pan onto a board to cut. She said foil or parchment. I think parchment would have been a better choice.

Thus, if you can imagine, because these brownie were a bit oily, crumbly, and stuck, cutting them was a frustrating nightmare. The one good thing about it all is that the chocolatey mess, which stuck to the cut bits of foil and lay all over the cutting board, did give me an excuse to eat up all the crumbs and to delay the research for another paper. That, I thoroughly enjoyed.

Now it's back to the books.

Chocolate Whiskey Cake

With a mid-term completed, the thesis in the hands of the second reader, and spring break here, I decided to celebrate by attempting a Chocolate Whiskey Cake in honor of St. Patrick's Day and American Chocolate Week. Unfortunately, Alice Medrich's book, Bittersweet (my chocolate bible) doesn't have any chocolate and liquor recipes that seem Irish, so I searched on-line for a cake that contains the ingredients I have and embraces the flavors I enjoy. The Whiskey-Soaked Dark Chocolate Bundt Cake (see left) adapted from the New York Times by Molly Wizenberg seemed to fit the bill.

I admit I felt like I was betraying my Alice by consulting a new chocolate diva. But through each step of this baking journey, Alice was constantly on my mind as I wondered, "WWAD? - What Would Alice Do?" I missed my Alice, whose instructions were always so clear, guaranteeing success. Molly's instructions... well, you'll see.

Originally intended to be a bundt cake using 5 oz of unsweetened chocolate, I cut the recipe in half to make a loaf because I only had one 4 oz 100% cacao bar. I didn't have any other unsweetened bars, and besides, with other recipes to be tried, a full bundt cake felt like it would be chocolate dessert overload requiring me to run more than the 21 miles I already run to keep my weight in check.

There are certain baking skills I feel like I'm slowing getting. Greasing and flouring pans, and melting chocolate are two of them. Skills which require use of the mixer, however, are not yet my forte, especially as I use my mom's old electric hand-held. No stand mixers here. It's still cumbersome for me as I try to hold the bowl and the mixer, scrape down the sides, add the ingredients, and try to not make too much of a mess in the process.

As I began the first part of the mixing, my initial attempt to "beat butter until fluffy" created globs that stuck to the blade things (whatever they're called) as I started it on "low." While Alice would've told me the speed, "high," "medium," or "low," Molly simply said to use an electric mixer. As I regrouped and switched to "medium," the butter began to loosen up and fluff. Or at least I think it was fluffed enough before the sugar, eggs, vanilla, baking soda, and melted chocolate were added. While Alice would've given a description of how long to beat and what the ingredients in the bowl should look like with each addition, Molly's instructions were a bit vague. Thus I kept wondering: Am I overbeating? Am I underbeating? Is this fluffy enough? Should I go longer? Shorter? Faster? Slower? WWAD?

Luckily Molly gave a few more instructions on the final steps as the flour and the coffee/whiskey mixture were added in thirds, and beat on "low." She notes that the final batter "may seem like there's too much liquid, but don't worry; it's okay." I sure hope it will be okay. The final product would be the tell tale sign, but as the smell of fresh mocha began to fill the air as the coffee/whiskey mixture blended into the chocolate-butter mix in the bowl, at least it was smelling okay. Luckily, I only had one incident of flying batter before everything was blended into a too liquidy batter which then needed to be scraped into the pan and baked at 325 degree.

For a bundt pan, Molly says, "1 hour and 10 minutes." For loaf panS (note the plural), she says, "start checking after 55 minutes." What about one loaf pan? I decided to check at 45 minutes, and I am glad I did because the toothpick came out clean. It was done, and maybe just a bit overdone. I needed to wait and see.

After 15 minutes of cooling, I unmolded the cake and attempted to "sprinkle the warm cake with more whiskey." Molly says to do this by shaking one teaspoon over the cake. She used three teaspoons for the bundt. May be it's a skill but the shaking of my one teaspoon led to more whiskey glops than an even sprinkling on the cake. After three teaspooned attempts on my half recipe, I called it quits. This was not working. WWAD?

As the cake cooled, it began to sank. It wasn't looking so pretty. Even the garnished powdered sugar couldn't hide its flaws. Cutting into it, I saw more denseness than the fluffy bundt-like cake quality I was expecting.

Tasting it, I definitely enjoyed the whiskey with the chocolate. There was a nice subtle chocolate bite which the whiskey helped to enhance. Very nice. Yet, there was a subtle "done" taste undertone that was present - not burnt, but it tasted done. And the texture was also a bit off. Not dense, not fluffy, somewhere in between as the loaf flattened. Not pretty to look at unfortunately -- or may be that's how it's supposed to look. Molly doesn't say. (The texture does look a little like the bundt picture above, doesn't it?)

Hmmm... Did I not fluff something long enough? May be my mom's baking soda was too old so the cake didn't rise? May be my halfing the ingredients in the recipe messed something up? May it's the whiskey? Oh Alice, what would you do?

Though a little disappointed with the final outcome, I must admit my Whiskey Chocolate Cake is still rather yummy and addicting. Sidestepping the "done" taste, I do like the chocolate bite and how the whiskey pairs with but does not overpower it. The texture is odd, but it grows on you. As I am still learning the science in baking, this attempt at a cake becomes a nice tribute to St. Patrick, who is the patron saint of engineers. When it comes to chocolate, however, it is back to "the book" for me - Alice's book, as bittersweet brownies are in line for my next "study break bake." Stay tuned.

Looks can be Deceiving

To be honest, I've been a bit disappointed with the quality of chocolate desserts I've sampled around Berkeley. Nothing has been stellar. Nothing has stood out. Nothing has enticed me to return and indulge again. Nothing, that is, until Cioccolata Di Vino, a Dessert and Wine Cafe, on Shattuck near Hearst.

While most of the places I've checked out have been cafes or bakeries, Cioccolata Di Vino is a restaurant which makes their own desserts, and features Italian-influenced cuisine with a "tantalizing menu of desserts and savory small plates, complemented by our carefully selected wine list." The atmosphere is designed to "create a warm environment that will foster social interaction and communication among friends, loved ones, and neighbors over delicious food and wonderful wine." Opened late afternoon through the evening, it became the perfect place to meet up for dessert with some friends who are preparing for marriage.

Checking their menu and website before meeting up, I knew this place looked promising as I looked forward to something dense, dark, and decadent. My plan was to order "Torta al Cioccolato Liquefatto." There is something about Italian named desserts that simple ooze with indulgence, but the description of this torta as a "warm, luscious molten lava cake topped with fresh whipped cream" also helped my dessert drool to begin.

One of the other chocolate desserts I had considered was the "Torta di Cioccolato e Polenta," described as a "chocolate polenta cake with finely chopped almonds, topped with fresh whipped cream and sliced almonds." Thus, I was very relieved when my friends decided to order that along with "Tortina di Limone," a "bright and flavorful lemon tart served with lemon thyme-infused whipped cream." They also ordered a vanilla hot chocolate.

I was rather disappointed when our desserts arrived. Service was not very good, and it was confirmed when my molten lava arrived with melted cream spewing over the sides. It had been sitting for awhile before arriving at our table. It simply did not look very appealing.

I have learned however that with desserts, appearances can be deceiving. Some of the most beautiful cakes I've seen have been some of the worst cakes I've tasted. And this melted mess ended up being one of the most seductive chocolate desserts I've had since my travels in New Zealand and Australia earlier this year. (I've not yet blogged about them but you can see the pictures here on Flickr.)

Though whip cream was literally everywhere, when my spoon cut open the cake, a rich dark warm chocolate oozed out. The outer layer of the cake had a bit of crisp crunch that was a nice offset in texture to the moist bittersweet cake which lay beneath and the chocolate liquid within which seemed to keep oozing. There was a gentle chocolate bite to the cake which provided a wonderful balance to the semi-sweetened lava center. It was warm and luscious, and I savored each bite. I was sad when it was gone. If it were not for the fact that I was sitting in a nice Italian restaurant, I probably would have picked up the plate to lick it clean. This was a divine chocolate experience.

While the Torta al Cioccolato Liquefatto oozed with rich chocolate indulgence, the Torta di Cioccolato e Polenta crunched with a unique chocolate pleasure. I've never had chocolate in polenta before but it was very good. There is a quality to a corn cake, which gives it a bit of a grainy edge but that texture pairs well with the bittersweet taste of the chocolate and the crunch of the almonds. I had a small taste, but would have loved to indulge in a little more.

In fact, I would love to indulge a lot more in both the lava and polenta cakes. And while we're at it, let's throw in the "hot chocolate" which is a beautiful drinking chocolate with a dark bittersweet bite, as well as the "Tortina di Cioccolato e Mandorle," their chocolate and almond tart which we did not order. Cioccolata Di Vino is definitely a place to which I am returning. Currently it is the site for the "our thesis is done celebration" I'm having with a classmate who gave up chocolate for lent. Her plan is to finish the thesis by Easter so we can indulge. Trust me, we will.

And in case you're wondering about the "Tortina di Limone," it too was a winner in my book. Tart and tangy, the fresh lemon sang loud and strong in this number.

I have a feeling that with most any dessert on the menu, you won't be disappointed. Of course these dessert delicacies at $6.95 are a bit more expensive than the ones in the local cafes, but they are worth it. They may look like a melted mess, and the service may not be so great (it took forever to get water refilled and to finally get our check), but the experience and the depth of flavors make up for it. With good friends and good food, you really can't go wrong at Cioccolata Di Vino. Simply sit and savor the experience. Just don't be in a rush to go.

Overall assessment: 4.7 cacao beans (out of 5)
If you're looking for a good dessert, I believe this is THE place in Berkeley. For those who like their chocolate desserts full of chocolate and not other sugary fillers, their chocolate selections offer deep rich flavors and texture . Yet for a place called "Cioccolata," I would have expected more than just three chocolate desserts. In spite, this is a place you'll want to return with friends to enjoy good food and fellowship.
(review date: 2010_03-12)

Missing the Mississippi Mud

From the thesis to a mid-term, the semester presses on. I wanted to find a good spot to plant myself for a few hours of study this week (okay, it was cramming), and while in search of a new spot, I decided I should also sample a new dessert to review on the blog in celebration of American Chocolate Week. Recently voted "Best Place to Study" by the Berkeley Press, Berkeley Espresso on the corner of Shattuck and Hearst seemed like a good option. And besides, it also has free wifi.

Though the place was full, there were tables outside and the weather was warming. Unfortunately, they had a limited chocolate dessert selection. My options were either a brownie, which looked like a basic boring brownie, or a piece of their Mississippi Mud Cake. Thick and dense with a rich layer of chocolate on top, it was an easy decision.

Since I had never heard of a "Mississippi Mud Cake" before, I decided to ask the server about the cake, what was in it, where it came from. He did not know. He just said that they get their desserts from a variety of places and they just sell them. I've discovered this as an unfortunate trend. Most servers in cafes, where desserts are not made on site, have no idea what they are actually serving. No praise if it's good, but also no blame if it's bad.

In many ways it was good I did not know what a Mississippi Mud Cake was before partaking, because if I did, I might have been disappointed. There appeared to be nothing really special about this dessert. It was a dense cake-like brownie, which was rather dry in texture, topped with a rich thick layer of chocolate frosting. Though there was a bit of a sugary grit in the frosting, it was nice and worked well with the cake forming a sweet chocolate combination. A little on the sweeter side for me, but that was probably nothing in comparison to how sweet a "real" Mississippi Mud Cake would have been.

"A 70s-era treat that features a topping of marshmallow, chocolate ganache, and pecans atop a rich, dense-dark chocolate cake" is how King Arthur Flour describes it.

For Southern Living it is "a luscious combination of chocolate, pecans, and marshmallows."

"A fudgy brownie-like base is topped with marshmallow creme and a nutty frosting," is the description from Taste of Home.

And as Paula Deen, the queen of Southern Cuisine describes it, "Mississippi Mud Cake is serious comfort food, my friends. You can sink into that deep, chocolate-y mud, and those sweet and mushy marshmallows, and feel safe. I could eat a whole cake when I was hidin' under my bed."








Now if you're paying attention to the descriptions above, and compare the photo of my Mississippi Mud Cake with the ones above, you'll notice a theme I've highlighted. First off, there's no marshmallows on mine. There's also no dark "muddy" quality, and where are the nuts? In comparison to the recipes and photos of a real Mississippi Mud Cake, what I was served was definitely lacking. Don't you think?

Compared to what it should be, the Mississippi Mud Cake at Berkeley Espresso definitely misses the mark. If it was simply called a basic "chocolate cake," you'd have a winner. But if you're expecting a deep, dark, gooey, marshmallowy, chocolate-y mud with a crunch, you're sure to be disappointed. While I'm not a marshmallow fan, the dark fudgy nuttiness that is to be a quality of this southern cake is definitely up my taste bud alley. I feel a bit gypped.

But it's all for the best, because if I did have a slice of Paula Deen's "Mississippi Mud Cake," I'd probably be wired with a sugar rush before even cracking open a book, then crashed in bed a few hours later. Instead, I got some studying done and enjoyed a nice big block of "chocolate cake," which in its own way is "serious comfort food."

Overall assessment: 3 cacao beans (out of 5)
If you're looking for a traditional Mississippi Mud Cake, you're not gonna find it at Berkeley Espresso. But if a big hunk of chocolate cake is what you're after, you'll find it. And though it won't be the best you've ever had, it definitely is not the worst.
(review date: 2010_03-15)

Chocolate on the Crepevine

We had to delay the celebration a week because of scheduling. Thesis writing can be a bear, and thus, any goal reached is a cause to pause and to par-tay! My friend Amelia was having a bit of a motivation melt down, so I began to encourage her and to set before her a chocolate reward as a treat upon reaching her goal. When her outline was sent to her advisor and my final chapter was rewritten, we decided we would celebrate. I was disappointed when she had to postpone, so when the day finally came, I was more than ready to enjoy some good chocolate dessert.

We decided on Crepevine as she and Helen, another friend from school, had never been there, and neither had had crepes for a while. I used to hang at the Crepevine in San Francisco but I had never been to this one on Shattuck, so I thought it would be a good spot for our festivities.

If Crepevine offered a crepe with chocolate and not Nutella, I would have ordered one like both Helen and Amelia did. With no chocolate on their crepe menu, I decided to try one of their chocolate cakes, which included a chocolate bundt cake with a rich chocolate ganache glaze (which looked very tempting), and two layered cakes (which looked decadent), neither however were labeled. A mystery.

Not sure which way to indulge, I decided to ask the server for a suggestion, something I often do. After sharing my preference for a dark and dense chocolate cake, she seemed to steer me away from the bundt, and suggested I sample the newest cake from their supplier, Artisan Foods of Berkeley, so I did, especially since the other chocolate layered cake had a raspberry filling.

Though I have enjoyed some really good berry and chocolate desserts, this flavor pairing is not my primary preference. It is true that there is something about the slightly tart taste in a berry that enhances the flavor of a good dark chocolate. That is why red wine and dark chocolate go well together. The tannins in the wine and the chocolate bring out the best in each other. In a chocolate cake however - for me, at least - it's really all about the chocolate - deep, dark, and dense.

When my slice arrived, the pinkish cream on top should have been my first clue that something was up with this cake. With my first bite, I knew that something was not right in chocolate cake land. There was an odd strawberry taste that was definitely present. It's not that it was unpleasant; it was simply not anticipated and odd.

Breaking the cake down, I discovered 4 different taste components. (1) There was the strawberry flavored whipped filling which had a weird waxy texture and a manufactured too sweet strawberry taste. On its own, it was not very pleasant. (2) There was the cake with its dark chocolate flavor and color. I wouldn't have minded enjoying the cake on it's own because it was very good. (3) There was a wonderful chocolate ganache glaze on top. A bit shiny, but not too sweet, which is how I like it. And finally (4) there were little semi-sweet chocolate chips on the back edge of the cake which provided a wonderful extra bite in flavor and crunch in texture. It was a nice addition.

I scraped the big pink glob off the top, and settled into this experience. I admit that together all four of the different taste components did complement each other. It wasn't a bad slice of chocolate cake, yet if it wasn't for the funky strawberry cream, this would have been an excellent dessert. The three different chocolate elements were very nice. I imagine if I were to throw some chocolate chips on the bundt cake with its chocolate ganache, I would have scored a real winner. In spite the not so wonderful strawberry cream, the wonderful conversation and laughter made up for it, as we had a great time celebrating our thesis milestones.

Overall assessment: 3.5 cacao beans (out of 5)
Not a bad cake - but for me, not a great dessert as the manufactured strawberry cream was a major distraction. If you enjoy chocolate and berries, I suggest you select the one with the raspberry filling. If you prefer chocolate on chocolate, however, you'd do better with the chocolate bundt (and may be ask for some chocolate chips.)
(Review date: 2010_03-11)

"Bowled" Over by Hot Chocolate

The sun had warmed the winter chill but with cloud cover in the afternoon, the air turned cold again. Spring had not yet sprung. I heard good things about Guerilla Cafe's Spiced Hot Chocolate, and with a cool afternoon breeze and a paper to write, I decided to allow a little hot chocolate to warm up the creative juices.

A small little coffee stop on Shattuck, Guerilla Cafe has a wonderfully cool, inviting eclectic personality. "Coffee, arts, and vibes" are its buzz words, and with an assortment of menu items and drinks from morning till evening, it is a wonderful place for writing, reading, day dreaming, or simply meeting up with friends. Unfortunately, it doesn't feature any chocolate desserts.

I wasn't sure what to expect when I ordered the Spiced Hot Chocolate. My preference is a thick and creamy, bittersweet chocolate with chili flakes and cinnamon to warm it up and kick it up a notch. Served in a little espresso cup with a spoon and for me, it is perfect.

When my hot chocolate arrived, I was surprised and totally overwhelmed because what I received was not a CUP of spiced hot chocolate, but a BOWL -- a bowl "as huge as my face" (as one of my old co-workers would have phrased it.) No pepper flakes but you could see the swirl of chili spice powder which formed an "S" on the top. I asked for a spoon and began to stir before realizing I needed to take a picture (thus, the "S" is a bit blurred in the picture below).

I took my first sip. Hmm... Though it didn't have a strong chili kick, it definitely was a nice mild blend of warm spices. Unfortunately, it was not a bittersweet chocolate but a milk chocolate blend. In fact, it tasted more like milk than chocolate. And the spoon was totally unnecessary because it was not thick and creamy but simply milky. In other words, pick up bowl and gently sip. And that is what I did.

This was not an example of a fine drinking chocolate like I experienced in Italy or at Bittersweet, or even Ghirardelli. This was simply a hot cocoa, blended with milk and spices to give it a gentle kick. A nice warm treat for a cold afternoon.

Though disappointed with the milky chocolate flavor of this spiced hot chocolate, I was amazed with the size of the bowl, the generous portion, and the wonderful vibe of the cafe. The experience definitely warmed up those creative juices because I cranked out a book review in record time. Not a bad afternoon.

Overall assessment: 3 cacao beans (out of 5)
If you like your hot chocolate milky and mild (with a kick of spice), you'll be "bowled" over by the Spiced Hot Chocolate at Guerilla, especially its size. While it was "nice," it was far from my preferred little cup of thick and creamy, bittersweet drinking chocolate. I am learning there is definitely a difference.
(review date: 2010_03-09)

Chocolate Mousse Musings

After my foray into creating what I consider a fabulous chocolate mousse, I won't say that I'm now a chocolate mousse expert, but I do confess that I did pat myself on the back (metaphorically speaking) each time I enjoyed one of the leftover ramekins in the fridge. To be honest, I was not a "mousse person" before because I simply had not found one I enjoyed. Chocolate mousse was always too sweet, too whippy, too "chocolate-lite" for my bittersweet, dense, rich chocolate preferences. Having found one I enjoy (aka mine, via Alice Medrich's recipe), I now have a mousse standard, and decided to give my taste buds a taste test.

Au Coquelet on University and Milvia in Berkeley has a special place in my heart. Having lived and ministered 4 years in the area, I spent many hours in this cafe with people, enjoying good fellowship and wonderful fruit tarts. With my new chocolate passion, I wanted to check out their Chocolate Mousse Tart and to experience how its flavor palate resonates with my emerging mousse preferences.

As I had learned from Alice, mousse, which simply means "foam," is to be elegantly smooth and creamy, with all its flavor coming from the chocolate. In other words, a good mousse is all about the chocolate, and allowing its flavors to "sing."

Unfortunately, the first note of Au Coquelet's Chocolate Mousse Tart made me wince. My first bite was very sweet, very rich, and not very "foamy." It was more like a thick, sweet ganache cake, and not what I imagined a mousse tart should be.

Once I got over the sweetness and settled into this experience, I cut small slivers to sample, so to identify the unique undertones that were being paired with the chocolate. There was a coconutty caramel flavor in this dessert, which I was beginning to enjoy. Yet as this little slice, which had been refrigerated, began to warm to room temperature, the sweetness began to overpower the chocolate.

Luckily, the crust, which had a deeper (aka "not as sweet") chocolate flavor, helped offset the sweetness. Because the fine chocolate crumb was a bit too crumbly and began to cover the plate with each cut, it coated more of my small slivers of mousse, and formed a better balance of flavor.

Though I eventually found the balance I needed to endure the sweetness, by the last bite, I found myself a bit strung out on a sugar high. This was a rich, sweet dessert and when it was done, I was done. May be I'm becoming more of a chocolate snob, but I now know what I like, and what I don't like, especially in a mousse. My preference is for a less sweet chocolate where the chocolate not the sugar sings the melody.

Overall assessment: 3 cacao beans (out of 5)
Though the coconutty caramel undertones were a unique high note in this chocolate mousse tart, which I enjoyed, it was a bit too sweet for me. I know however that some people with more of a chocolate sweet tooth would love this. It wasn't a bad mousse tart (I have had worst), it just wasn't excellent. It was simply OK. But if I am ever in need of a sugar high, I now know where to go get one.
(review date: 2010_03-02)

Love At First Bite

For better or for worst, cupcakes are the latest rage when it comes to trendy desserts. Though they are not my first chocolate preference, when I heard about a little cupcakery near school that featured vegan chocolate desserts, I knew I needed to check it out.

Located near the corner of Shattuck and Vine in Berkeley, "Love At First Bite" has a side selection of cupcakes, cookies, and cakes. Though all of them looked beautifully tempting, I have learned that looks can be deceiving as I've sampled more than my share of chocolate desserts that looked delicious and decadent, but were anything but.

I walked in this small little shop, located off the main drag, and knew exactly what I wanted. Described as "the richest, moistest chocolate cake you'll ever taste," the Vegan Chococake has no eggs or dairy, and is crowned with vegan mocha frosting. After a productive afternoon in thesis mode, this was my reward. I was excited.

To be cliche, it truly was "love at first bite." This standard-sized cupcake was soft, light, and tender. There was a smooth creamy texture to the cake that needed to be savored. Resting on your tongue, this cupcake did not want to be chewed as much as it wanted to simply melt in your mouth.

While the frosting on its own was more sugary- sweet than mocha-d, it did bring out the chocolatey bite in the cupcake which on its own was a rather mild but pleasant semi-sweet. The frosting and the cake brought the best out of each other in terms of flavors. They needed one another to bring out the "love" in this dessert.

Though the Vegan Chococake was the complete antithesis for my preferred dense, dark, and rich chocolate palate, I definitely found myself falling under its spell. It was a $2.75 delight that was gone too quickly.

Overall assessment: 4.5 cacao beans (out of 5)
Not quite perfect for me, as my taste buds still prefer the deep, dense, dark undertones of bittersweet chocolate. However, if you enjoy light, fluffy, and mild, the Vegan Chococake is the perfect cupcake for you. And did I mention it is VEGAN? Not only is it good on the palate, it is good for the planet.
(review date: 2010_03-02)

Celebrating American Chocolate Week

Today begins the third week of March, and the kick-off for the 19th annual American Chocolate Week. There's a little discrepancy whether the celebration begins on Sunday the 14th or Monday the 15th, so I've decided to extend it to a "baker's dozen" week and have 8 days of chocolate indulgence, beginning Sunday the 14th and lasting until Sunday the 21st. How's that for a nice little compromise?

How will I celebrate chocolate this week?

Because I have a midterm on Friday, I've decided to blog about the study breaks I've taken this semester when at school, and to review the chocolate dessert locations around Berkeley.

(Not all my study breaks have been "study bakes"!)

With the thesis looming these past 3 months, I've indulged in a bit more chocolate decadence than I typically do. Because I continue to take pictures and make notes about all my chocolate adventures, I wasn't quite sure what to do with all my "research". American Chocolate Week seems like the perfect opportunity to share it, and the best way to celebrate the beauty that is chocolate.

This week I'll feature some short blogs on chocolate desserts in the Berkeley area. Some of what I've sampled has been excellent; some not so much so. But I'll share the best and minimize the worst, as I break and blog about chocolate this week.

Are you ready?

Unfortunately, you'll have to wait until tomorrow to discover the bakery in Berkeley that serves up a near "perfect" chocolate cupcake. And if I didn't tell you it was VEGAN, you'd probably never know.

Bittersweet Deception

There's something about chocolate and liquor that I've really come to enjoy this past year. It's not so such liquor with chocolate, as in a good red wine paired with a rich dark chocolate. It's more liquor within a chocolate dessert that I appreciate. For me, the smooth floral notes of the alcoholic spirits embrace the sharp bittersweet nature of the chocolate, forming a rich dessert harmony for the palate that makes my spirit soar.

After successfully making warm bittersweet mousse, I've been debating what my next study break bake (or "study bake") should be. Liking booze with my chocolate, Alice Medrich's Bittersweet Deception seemed a perfect candidate and I am glad to say, it did not disappoint. I was not only impressed with the overall taste composition of this low fat (yes, low fat) dessert. I was totally blown away by the fact that I could recreate it -- in spite my issues with the liquor. (And no, I was not sipping it along the way. )

According to Alice, the "deception" in this dessert is the fact that it is low in fat (no butter or cream) but rich in taste. It is truly a "dense, moist, melt-in-your mouth bittersweet chocolate dessert." The cognac in the recipe rounds out the richness and makes this nearly flourless cake a truly divine delight.

Being the first time I've really made a chocolate cake from scratch, I proceeded to line up all the ingredients I would need. I didn't have a single 5 oz 70% bittersweet bar as the recipe called for so I used one 3.5 oz with 56% cacao and one 1.4 oz with 70%. I cut out about 1 tablespoon of sugar to compensate, following suggestions Alice gives in her book, Bittersweet. It seemed to work.

I've never finely chopped chocolate before, and learned that my mom's big chinese cleaver works much better than the small paring knife and the medium utility knife I first used. The third knife was the charm.

After combining the 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa, 2 tablespoons of flour, 1/2 cup of sugar, and pinch of salt in a small sauce pan with 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons water, I continuously stirred the cocoa mixture over medium heat to prevent scorching as Alice directed. But I began to wonder how I would know when this very liquidy concoction was simmering, and ready for the final timed 2 minutes before I would need to remove it from the heat. It took a while -- stirring and stirring, but I soon noticed the mixture thickening. I began stirring faster and after 2 minutes, I could tell it was starting to glob. It was done, and I immediately poured it over the chopped chocolate and began to stir. It now came time to whisk in the 1 teaspoon of vanilla (no problem), and then the 2 tablespoons of cognac.

Uh-oh. Problem.

Now my parents aren't into liquor. There is a little cabinet in the dining room where the spirits are kept. The bottles have been there for God only knows how long. While she was still living, my grandmother (dad's mom) would often have a little sip of something before retiring for the evening. She passed away over 15 years ago. The booze is old, I know. But being in an unopened bottle and baked in a cake, the cognac, I figured, wouldn't be a problem. It unfortunately was.

Screwing off the lid, I discovered that the cork was so old it had disintegrated from the top and was stuck in the neck of the bottle! As I see the chocolate out of the corner of my eye starting to cool and I need to whisk the cognac NOW -- what to do? Use another liquor maybe? No. Alice specifically says cognac or rum, and I know there is no rum in the house. Alice also does not list the alcohol as optional, meaning that it probably is essential for the deceptively rich taste in this surprisingly low-fat dessert.

I grab a cork screw to see if it would help. It didn't get the cork out, but it did drill a hole through the cork's center so that I could see into the bottle. As I poured to measure out the necessary one tablespoon, little bits of cork came floating out onto the spoon. I eventually was able to skim off the cork bits, add the cognac to the chocolate mixture, and whisk it in. Breathe a sigh of relief.

The two eggs, egg white, and 1/2 cup sugar did double in volume after beating on high for about 5-6 minutes as Alice noted, creating a foamy liquid froth that was easily mixed 1/3 at a time into the chocolate. I had done this with the mousse and found myself getting the hang for this folding action.

My mom had picked up some baking parchment so I could cut a circle for the bottom of the 8 inch pan. With the sides greased, and the batter poured, it was into a baking pan which I filled with BOILING water. (I learned from my mousse experience.) 350 degrees for 30 minutes, and the cake was crusty on top and the surface sprung back when gently pressed. Well, sort of. I gave my chocolate creation a few more minutes so it would have a better "spring" rather than be a simple "sprungk."

After a cooling and a few hours in the fridge (Alice says overnight but I couldn't wait), I unmolded it, while my mom taught me how to lightly dust it with powdered sugar.

And with the first bite, I was hooked. It was rich and dense, moist and decadent, with a deep bittersweet bite that was underscored by the cognac which seemed to intensify the chocolate and to meld the flavors together so to raise this cake to a new level of royal richness. It's hard to describe, but boy, was it good.

The cognac created a rich flavor profile so that this low-fat chocolate dessert tasted deceptively bad for you. That is the "Bittersweet Deception."

The liquor in this dessert made it soar over the top, as the spirits with the chocolate made my soul sing with another dessert success. I'm getting the hang of this chocolate baking thing, and learning a few things too. Next time, check the booze before I begin.

And may be sample a little too!

Chocolate, Chocolate Chip, Walnut Cookies

The best breaks in life are free. With the thesis crunching in, time is a precious commodity. But thanks to my cousin, I was able to break, bake, and enjoy some homemade chocolate cookies, without having to do more than pop open the lid and scoop. It was almost as easy as "open box and bake." And the results - definitely much more delicious, though a bit crunchier than I would have liked!

My cousin Janeen (who won my 2009 "perfect" chocolate cake contest) was telling me about some of her recent baking experiences. There was a new VEGAN recipe she wanted to try from Veganomicon by Moskowitz and Romero. "Chocolate Chocolate Chip Walnut Cookies" sounded yummy, veganly perfect, and not being shy when it comes to chocolate, I of course volunteered to be her guinea pig.

Since Janeen lives about 30 minutes away, sampling a fresh cookie from her is a challenge. But because my parents are in her area on Sundays to visit our grandmother, it worked out that they could be the cookie couriers. Rather than baking the cookies, Janeen decided to send the raw dough and let me bake them fresh and enjoy them hot from the oven because when it comes to home baked cookies, there is really no better way to enjoy them.

With the rain coming down this afternoon, thoughts of warm, fresh-baked cookies filled my mind. A perfect day to bake and to take a break from the thesis. And with Janeen already having done the hard part in assembling the dough, I just needed to form the dough into one inch balls, flatten them on the pan, and bake.

Now my mom isn't really much of a baker and supplies are a bit scarce here. "I have a non-stick pan for you to use," she said. With a high learning curve in baking, I consented, warmed the oven to 350 degrees and began to place the cookie dough on the dark non-stick cookie sheet. Though a bit oily, the dough was a deep dark brown with a wonderful chocolate smell, packed full of walnut and chocolate chips. I was so ready to eat the raw dough but I resisted.

(Come to think of it, I could have eaten them raw as there are no eggs and thus no salmonella fears to contend with. Next time...)

Soon the smell of warm baking cookies filled the air, and at the end of the allotted 10 minute baking period, the cookies came out of the oven looking wonderfully appetizing. My mom and I were both ready to get at them, but we let them cool, and my mom was patient as I took my pictures. In no time, however, the taste test began.

The cookies were still slightly warm and had a wonderful deep chocolate-flavor. "Not very sweet," my mom said. And personally, that's how I like them as the bittersweet undertones lifted the rich subtle sweetness in the chopped walnuts and the chocolate chips. There was however a clear crunch to the cookie, and an "almost burnt" taste that lingered. While my preference is moist and chewy cookies, my mom loves crunchy cookies (along with nuts and chocolate) and so for her, it was a perfect combination. She loved them.

For me, I adored the taste combination and the fact that they are VEGAN. I would, however, have preferred a chewy, fudgy texture. Now if I had listened to Alice, I would have known better.

In her book Bittersweet (my new Bible on chocolate baking), Alice Medrich notes that "cookies will have the best flavor and texture if they are baked on sheets lined with parchment paper, or even wax paper, which insulates them just enough but still allows the cookies to be a little crusty on the outside and soft within." She goes onto to write, "Pans with dark surfaces (even if they are non-stick) tend to scorch rich chocolate cookie bottoms before the centers are cooked." There is my answer. I baked these rich chocolate cookies on my mom's non-stick dark pan and the pans scorched the bottoms.

Alice knows best. And I know better now.

But in any case, the cookies were (and still are) excellent. What makes them better is that the ingredients were blended and sent with love by my cousin, and baked fresh and enjoyed with my mom. And I learned something about baking too.

Overall, it was a wonderful baking break on a rainy day. Now it's back to the books, until the next chocolate adventure when the baking plan will be Alice's Bittersweet Deception. "Cake," she writes, "doesn't really begin to do justice to this dense, moist, melt-in-your-mouth bittersweet chocolate dessert." Definitely, my kind of indulgence. When the thesis editing is done, the baking will begin. Stay tuned